In German-speaking areas of Switzerland, Saint Nicholas (or Santa Claus) is known as Samichlaus. On December 5th, the eve of St. Nicolas Day, villages around Lake Lucerne glow with the light of hundreds of enormous iffele - heavy paper-cut bishops' miter/hats - paraded through the streets by men and boys in white robes. The headpieces are artistically designed, intricately cut out of cardboard, and lit by a candle within. The iffelen, from three to six feet tall, have been made for over 100 years. Each is a unique piece of art. When the candle is lit they are transformed into "stained glass" due to the many colors of transparent paper inside.
Each town has its own way to celebrate. In Beckenried, the day starts at 10AM with the Samichlaismärcht or the Santa Market. Visitors crowd around the 70+ stalls selling handicrafts of all shapes & sizes. But Ofcourse I'm instantly drawn to the colourful food stalls -- Heisse Marroni (Roasted Chestnuts); BratKäse (Molten Cheese on Bread); Lebkuchen (Christmas Spiced Cakes) Glüwein (Mulled Wine) and Grappas. I shamelessly sample everything vegetarian. There's also a stand with a whole Ox being grilled... I can barely look at it.
The Santa Claus parade in Beckenried begins at 20:00 hrs. It's just 17:00 hrs now as we make our way to our friends home for dinner. On our way, we get a sneak preview of the "Trichlers" and the "Geisslechlepfers". I pause to take a couple of pictures.
After dinner, we head out with our friends to witness the famous Samichlaus parade. By now the town is completely dark. The street lights are turned off; no lights are visible in any windows. Most of the 3000 residents of Beckenried and many visitors line up in anticipation along the main street. Its hard to find a spot. Some bangs and dull rumbling noises can be heard in the distance. Slowly the noises start to come closer.
Whips and Lanterns
The "Geisslechlepfer" in groups of four lead the procession into town. They crack their whips producing an interesting rhythm. A red light fastened to the end of their whips, makes interesting patterns in the dark. The whip is about 5-6 meters long and we try to move out of their way. Lukas is taking pictures with my cell.. The crack of the whip snatches the cell from his hand and throws it on the road as if a reminder to say.. Just create memories with your eyes.. Ouch!! Is my iPhone now broken?? I start focusing on the cell & not the patterns made by the whips. Lukas retrieves the cell after the whips stop lashing & i can again focus on the parade.
The "Geisslechlepfer" are followed by the town's schoolchildren carrying "Iffeln" on their heads. The lights and pictures show up magnificently in the darkness and add a solemn touch to the procession.
For whom the Bells Toll?
Next is "Samichlaus" (St. Nicholas) riding in a horsedrawn carriage into the town, greeting the many women, men and children lined up along the street. He is accompanied by a group of "Schmutzlis" (Schmutzlis are all black: dressed in black, with black hair and black beard, and a face darkened with lard and soot.) Tomorrow St. Nicholas & Schmutzlis will be visiting all the homes in Beckenried handing out nuts, tangerines and gingerbread. I've always believed in Santa Claus, Pixies, Gnomes and Magical creatures of all shapes & sizes.. but Schmutzlis.. Na.. Na.. they're far from being my favourites.
Behind Samichlaus are the "Hornbläser" ~25 men blowing cow horns in a repeated rhythm. Close behind is an army of "Trichler". The men of Beckenried walk in rows of seven, carrying large cowbells that ring with the steady rhythm of each step. The regular beat and the constant dB level of 500 bells ringing as one, creates an almost hypnotic effect. The men in their "Burdihämmli" (white farmer's shirts) move through town as if in a trance like state. I can feel the bells resonating in my ears and penetrating straight to my heart. The streets resound with all these sounds of horns blowing, whips cracking and bells clanging.
As the "Trichler" pass, one can sense the archaic power that lies hidden within this old custom. It is a mythical experience, that lets one feel an emotional connection to the supernatural through the centuries.
This solemn procession with whips, bells, and horns is rooted in pre-Christian times when noise was used to banish darkness and evil. Today's whip-cracking heralds the arrival of St. Nicholas.
Grand Finale on the Town's Square
After the long march through main street, the large group of paraders finally assembles in the town square. St. Nicholas places himself in the middle of the square and the "Trichler" march in circles around him. The sound of the bells echoes off the walls of the surrounding houses. After a few minutes of this intense bell ringing the "Uistrichle", the climax of the event, begins. The sound changes from a monotonous rocking rhythm to a wild crescendo; warding off all evil spirits for another year!!
For the audience, the night continues in the restaurants of the town amidst music, drinking and dancing.
